The challenge that Lodovico, Francesco and Michele Montresor decided to face in Lugana is based on the strong conviction that wines with talent, high-class and good-breeding must carry with them the signature of their creation which translates into being recognizable. This reasoning is based on the creation of wines that are conceptually modern yet hold the absolute certainty that the inescapable pairing of terrain and vine is respected.
The terrain is clearly of glacial origin. Ice descended into the valley bringing debris with it to form the amphitheatre of the Morenic hills and as it passed it left the Lugana basin. This territory is made up of layers of separate sediments and, today, upon viewing a section of the terrain we can see that it is made up of several clusters of calcareous clayey layers that are relatively thin, with an initial layer of 60/80 cm. that is made up of red clay. This so-called “leopard spot” configuration is quite characteristic as the predominant quantity of clay in the soil varies greatly from area to area.
Trebbiano di Lugana, known locally as “Turbiana”. Many scholars claim that its genetic profile is similar to that of Verdicchio, but from a point of view of phenology, agronomy and oenology, it is completely independent. Recent research at the University of Milan has identified the “Trebbiano di Lugana” genome as having characteristics that cannot be traced to the other Trebbiano vines. Tradition calls for a double arch planting system with approximately 18 buds. More recent planting systems have seen an increase in the number of plants per hectare; as a consequence there is a decrease in the number of buds to 10-12. The vine is not particularly vigorous, taking into account that the first two buds are infertile. Expansive training systems are useless.
The preconditions highlight how a “seemingly normal” vine becomes a truly extraordinary white wine, thrilling in the expression of its detail, in the coupling with the purest clays. Young wines like Lugana DOC and Lugana DOC Le Creete have a unique freshness, deliciousness and liveliness. Wonderful and unusual, this flavour brings to mind savouriness, spiciness and smokiness. The acidic strength gives energy and flavour and over time becomes more expansive, detailed and attractive. But it is in the aged wines that the true spirit of Lugana can be found. When bottled the Lugana Molceo enjoys transforming a little at a time, and as it changes its minerally notes develop to the full. Hydrocarbons begin to surface and evolution brings about ageing; but this is not a problem as the clays help to preserve it, giving it an unexpected longevity.