Bovio Awards

94 - ARBORINA BAROLO DOCG 2016

The panoramic views from Arborina extend over most of the Barolo appellation with rolling hills and snowcapped Alps. The vines enjoy a sun-drenched position for most of the day. The Bovio 2016 Barolo Arborina draws its fruit from 45-year-old vines and shows extra intensity and definition that comes in part thanks to the advanced age of the plants. However, the wine also magically reflects the elegance of the site with delicate berry nuances followed by licorice, aniseed and crushed stone. Give this release of 3,300-bottles (at least) another five years of cellar aging.

93 - BAROLO DOCG 2016

The Gianfranco Bovio 2016 Barolo is a wine of vivid energy and brightness. The fruit shows a crisp and pure quality with wild berry, dried violet, candied orange peel and crushed limestone. It shows a smooth and silky texture that holds firm to the palate. Winemaking is simple, with brief skin macerations. When fermentation is complete, the wine is racked over to botte grande for two years of aging, followed by six months in cement. The fruit comes from both La Morra and Castiglione Falletto. Some 12,000 bottles were released.

96 - DE-RIEUMES BAROLO DOCG RISERVA 2013

Here's a late-release Riserva from Bovio. The 2013 Barolo Riserva De-Rieumes is a blend of fruit from two crus in La Morra. Specifically, it is 80% Gattera and 20% Arborina. What a pretty wine. You are awarded primary fruit with vivid cherry and blackberry, but you also get evolved aromas of spice, camphor ash and spent ember. The aromatic ensemble is delicate and fine, reminding us of the magic that comes with aged Nebbiolo. This is a very small release with only 1,100 bottles made, but it is well worth seeking out, especially at this reasonable price.

94 - GATTERA BAROLO DOCG 2016

The Bovio 2016 Barolo Gattera (with just 3,400 bottles released) is a true beauty. The Gattera cru in La Morra is planted to 70-year-old vines. Half the vineyard was ripped out in 2019 and was replanted earlier this year, but this vintage is made entirely from old vines. There is a touch of ripeness here, you almost taste the grape skins, but you also get rich and enduring aromas of red cherry, plum, spice and iron-rich soil. The wine's balance is impressive, albeit on the powerful side. This bottle is a good candidate for cellar aging.

96 - PARUSSI BAROLO DOCG 2016

Here's a blast from the past. This wine has not been produced since the 2004 vintage, so it's a real pleasure to rediscover it today. The Bovio 2016 Barolo Parussi draws its fruit from Castiglione Falletto in a site with southern exposures positioned 230 meters above sea level. This is a true treasure, a wine with beautiful balance and intensity. The aromas are precise and focused with wild berry, dried rose, crushed limestone and candied fruit. In the mouth, the wine is velvety and structured, with fine textural impact. A mere 1,900 bottles were released. Bovio's Barolo Parussi, the comeback kid, is another home run from Castiglione Falletto in the classic 2016 vintage.

92 - ROCCHETTEVINO BAROLO DOCG 2016

With fruit from La Morra, the Bovio 2016 Barolo Rocchettevino shows a soft and silky disposition with an immediate, open-knit texture. Fruit comes from a small, half-hectare vineyard located 400 meters above sea level where nighttime temperatures are cool and breezy. This is the proverbial near-term Barolo that will appeal to those who don't have the patience to wait. Production is small at 2,600 bottles.

92 - ARBORINA BAROLO DOCG 2016

Aromas of exotic spice, botanical herb, camphor and whiffs of French oak emerge from the glass. Reflecting the nose, the youthfully austere palate offers cranberry, sour cherry, coconut and menthol alongside tightly wound close-grained tannins. Give it time to fully develop. Drink 2026–2036.

91 - BAROLO DOCG 2016

Red berry, blue flower and a whiff of menthol form the delicate nose. The linear, medium-bodied palate is already accessible, offering strawberry, cranberry and star anise alongside taut, polished tannins and fresh acidity. Drink through 2026.

93 - DE-RIEUMES BAROLO DOCG RISERVA 2013

Underbrush, dark-skinned berry and leather aromas lead the way along with a whiff of rose petal. The full-bodied palate offers mature cherry, licorice and pipe tobacco alongside firm, fine-grained tannins. Drink 2021–2030.

92 - GATTERA BAROLO DOCG 2016

Woodland-berry, iris and crushed mint aromas take center stage on this elegant, fragrant red. The vibrant, medium-bodied palate offers succulent black cherry, raspberry compote and star anise framed in polished tannins. Fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2023–2028.

93 - PARUSSI BAROLO DOCG 2016

Aromas of underbrush, leather, camphor and scorched earth slowly take shape in the glass. Full bodied and firmly structured, the solid palate features dried black cherry, orange zest, licorice and clove set against a backbone of assertive, close-grained tannins. Give it time to fully develop. Drink after 2026.

92 - ROCCHETTEVINO BAROLO DOCG 2016

Rose, red-berry, crushed mint and truffle aromas lead the nose. It's taut and linear, offering pomegranate, sour cherry and ground clove alongside tight close-grained tannins that give it a firm drying close. Drink after 2026.